Friday, October 25, 2019
Day 33, Valley of the Gods
Day 33: Valley of the Gods, rest stop
Day 33 photos, Valley of the Gods
This place will go down for me as the ten wonders of the world i saw.
Day 33, valley of the Gods
Day 33 photo, even Donner was awed by what was unfolding before us.
Day 33, a drive through the Valley of the Gods
Day 33, Valley of the Gods, another potential camp for tomorrow night, Goosenecks camp
Day 33, Recapture Lodge near Valley of the Gods, Dinner for Donner
Day 32, Thursday, October 24, Bluff Utah, Recapture Lodge, 6428 miles
Up at 7 after a bad night's sleep, Thanks to that behemoth next door. Since i did all i could do here at the Grand Canyon yesterday, i decided to move on today to Bluff Utah and hope to get a room in the very pleasant Recapture Lodge where we stayed last year.
It was very cold this morning (20s) so i took my sweet time to break camp. And how sweet it was! That is a pace I can live with.
On the road at 11. As soon as i got on highway 89, i passed a young woman hitchhiking with backpacking gear. I would have stopped to give her a lift (perhaps secretly hoping to recreate the pleasant experience i had with Stephanie in 2016) but since the drive would be about 300 miles, the only place she could have sat was cramped in the back in Dinner's rear bed. Besides, i reasoned, since women simply do not hitchhike alone these days, or backpack the Grand Canyon, she was probably pulling the age-old two-for-one trick - the woman hitchhikes alone and when a vehicle stops to pick her up, the boyfriend suddenly hops out from hiding, and the people who stopped really have no choice but to take the two of them. (That happened to me in Ireland and the Yukon.) But i do have a choice since i have room for one extra person, a small person. So i moved on and silently wished her well, but had i had room for the two of them, i would have taken them both.
The 300-mile drive today was long and hot, but breathless the entire way —- Mountains, canyons, mesas, and then the monuments. There was no end to it. Every hour brought an entirely different landscape. Every minute brought a reaction from me. I could not get enough of it.
Last year, when i was headed this same way, my Garmin took me down the periphery of Monument Valley. But that was so awesome a drive, i decided to stop by this year and drive the valley. So, when my Garmin today tried to take me to Bluff the same way, i shut it down, took a left onto route 163, turned on Red River Rock, and had the 90-mile ride of a lifetime. What absolutely awesome beauty. One big monument would no sooner disappear and another would pop up right behind it. Go watch John Wayne's cowboy movies to see what i am talking about, especially Stagecoach. I did over the last year and recognized much of the landscape and many of the monuments. Sheer beauty.
The sun was about to set when i flew by the Valley of the Gods, so i decided to stay an extra day here to explore it over a many-mile dirt road.
My goal today was to make it to Bluff Utah and stay in the very pleasant and dog-friendly Recapture Lodge where we stayed last year. When i got there ar 6:30 just as daylight disappeared, they had one room left, #4, the same one we had last year. Lucky me, huh? If they were full, i probably would be bivouacking somewhere in the desert.
As soon as we entered our pleasant room, i swear i heard Donner say, now this is more my style. He immediately took his favored position in such places, on one of the beds, until i chased him off to cover it.
My plans from here are uncertain because both Arches and Needles National Parks are on reservation system until Nov first and they are full reserved. For years when i heard those places were fully booked this time of year, i envisioned it was by these tanned mesomorphs with washboard stomachs, full heads of wavy hair, NorthFace tents, and the latest climbing outfits, who went there to climb Spiderman-like those oddly shaped rocks to practice for El Capitan or Everest, and then drive their Jeeps through the rough desert. Nope all RVs (disclaimer - i do have a NorthFace tent but drive a Defender).
Time for my first sleep in a bed in 32 days.
Ed and Donner, from the road
It was very cold this morning (20s) so i took my sweet time to break camp. And how sweet it was! That is a pace I can live with.
On the road at 11. As soon as i got on highway 89, i passed a young woman hitchhiking with backpacking gear. I would have stopped to give her a lift (perhaps secretly hoping to recreate the pleasant experience i had with Stephanie in 2016) but since the drive would be about 300 miles, the only place she could have sat was cramped in the back in Dinner's rear bed. Besides, i reasoned, since women simply do not hitchhike alone these days, or backpack the Grand Canyon, she was probably pulling the age-old two-for-one trick - the woman hitchhikes alone and when a vehicle stops to pick her up, the boyfriend suddenly hops out from hiding, and the people who stopped really have no choice but to take the two of them. (That happened to me in Ireland and the Yukon.) But i do have a choice since i have room for one extra person, a small person. So i moved on and silently wished her well, but had i had room for the two of them, i would have taken them both.
The 300-mile drive today was long and hot, but breathless the entire way —- Mountains, canyons, mesas, and then the monuments. There was no end to it. Every hour brought an entirely different landscape. Every minute brought a reaction from me. I could not get enough of it.
Last year, when i was headed this same way, my Garmin took me down the periphery of Monument Valley. But that was so awesome a drive, i decided to stop by this year and drive the valley. So, when my Garmin today tried to take me to Bluff the same way, i shut it down, took a left onto route 163, turned on Red River Rock, and had the 90-mile ride of a lifetime. What absolutely awesome beauty. One big monument would no sooner disappear and another would pop up right behind it. Go watch John Wayne's cowboy movies to see what i am talking about, especially Stagecoach. I did over the last year and recognized much of the landscape and many of the monuments. Sheer beauty.
The sun was about to set when i flew by the Valley of the Gods, so i decided to stay an extra day here to explore it over a many-mile dirt road.
My goal today was to make it to Bluff Utah and stay in the very pleasant and dog-friendly Recapture Lodge where we stayed last year. When i got there ar 6:30 just as daylight disappeared, they had one room left, #4, the same one we had last year. Lucky me, huh? If they were full, i probably would be bivouacking somewhere in the desert.
As soon as we entered our pleasant room, i swear i heard Donner say, now this is more my style. He immediately took his favored position in such places, on one of the beds, until i chased him off to cover it.
My plans from here are uncertain because both Arches and Needles National Parks are on reservation system until Nov first and they are full reserved. For years when i heard those places were fully booked this time of year, i envisioned it was by these tanned mesomorphs with washboard stomachs, full heads of wavy hair, NorthFace tents, and the latest climbing outfits, who went there to climb Spiderman-like those oddly shaped rocks to practice for El Capitan or Everest, and then drive their Jeeps through the rough desert. Nope all RVs (disclaimer - i do have a NorthFace tent but drive a Defender).
Time for my first sleep in a bed in 32 days.
Ed and Donner, from the road
Thursday, October 24, 2019
Day 32, Recapture Lodge, Bluff Utah
Day 32, The Valley of the Gods
Ed
Day 32 photo, Monument Valley
Day 32, Monument Valley
Day 32 photo, rest break for Donner on way to Bluff UT
Day 32 photo, i felt badly
Day 32, on the road to Bluff Utah
Ed
Day 32 photo, the drive from the Grand Canyon
Ed
Day 32, Grand Canyon, why tenters are suspicious of big RVs
Ed
Day 32 note...the iPad outbox is not cooperating
When i lose internet and messages get stuck in my outbox in a queue, the iPad does not cooperate and some messages get sent two or more times, and all get sent out of sequence when cell service does show up. Sorry about that.
Days 26-28, October 17-20, Death Valley National Park, California
I JUST FOUND THIS IN DRAFTS. DID I POST IT ALREADY.
I am writing this posting as i overlook the extraordinarily beautful view at Dantes View in Death Valley. This most gorgeous place on earth was never on my list of places to experience, but it should have been, long ago. Somehow, my instincts to pay it a visit on this trip, and to sray for four days, was richly rewarded. Wow, what a beauty it is.
I have sent photos, privided some commentary, and explained some of the logistics, including our good fortune to end up in the site we secured, so i will jot dwell on them. I will only note thise things that come to my well-cleared mind as i sit here with the view as my music, the slight cool breeze as my virtual ink, and my naping dog beside me as additinal insoirztion. I would never have come here without him, nor will i ever take a road trip without my dogs.
We drove about 420 miles through the park these last three days on just about all the roads there are to drive. The return trips were just as exhilarting as thevoutward bound trips because when driving you can onky look one way at a time and because a view from the east is not the same view from the west. Not once durung these 420 miles did i feel indifference to what i was seeing, nor did i take my eyes off these views except when road conditions demanded my attention.
I purposely decided to divide the rides over three days to bask in the glory of these mountains. Unless someone wants to take the half dozen or so short hikes, it is possibke to drive through the entire park in one long day, but i would not advise it.
As for these short hikes, they do not allow pets on thise trails, so i took none of them. I refuse to leave my dogs on these trips as they are for the two of us together. Only once did i regret not being able to hike a trail, the 2-mile round trip to the beautiful oassis Darwin Falls, but i will find find some videos on line to experience throuh others' eyes what i missed.
But while the multitudinous school-marmish No Pets signs kept me off sime trails, the Defender in several places took me to a few places few would dare go, Donner's Cove for one. This vehicle over its 26 years and moon-distance miles have taken me places i never would have ventured with any other vehicke.
The No Pets signs, or the Defender's go-everywhere attitude notwithstanding, no matter how much joy people on these public access facilities, no one, and i mean no one, can experience the full pleasure of this park more than the backcountry hikers. Having taken six expeditions into the backcountry wildernesses of Alaska and Russia, i know that. I am not one for regretting actions or inactions of my own, but i as i sit here admiring this view, i regret not spending time as part of this landscape when i could have. But knowing it is there for others to experience is good enough for me. (Note: i imagine backcountry hiking is limited because of the dearth of watering holes, and one can only carry so much water in a place that requires one to drrink a gallon of water a day with temperatures going up to 124 degrees at times in places.
But the backcountry hiking instincts were still with me during these three days. As i scanned these forever unique mountains to the left of me and to the right of me as we drove by, after my first joys of the beauty were exhausted, my thoughts were always, which is the best pass to take? How difficult would that path be to traverse? How long would it take to hike from there to there? Where would a good place be to biviuace for the night? And what about water? My last expedition (on Kamchatka) was in 1997, but i cannot get these questions out of my mind. In a sense, they are still as useful today as i apply them to my current mode of experiencing nature, the road. But on a scale of 1 to ten, if backcountry hiking is a 10 and watching a video of the same terrain is a 1, the way i am experiencing it now is at best a 4.
As for some additional logistics, the weather really cooperated with us. Except for the first few hours here , the temperature has been tolerable. And the i occasional breezes and winds were welcome, not onky for heat relief, but to keep the fly population under control.
As for snags on this trip so far, it has been as snag free as one could hope for, especially if 2016 is the trip to beat. The latest came yesterday when i could not open the hood on the Defender, but a little ingenuity and an hour of my time succeeded.
Tomorrow we move on to Zion no, 270 miles away. The place is becoming so popular you cannot get a camp site within miles. Since my guess is that it will look like the annual RV convention us being held there, i will just drive though the park in one day, and then move on the the Grand Canyon north rim before the snows arrive there and closes the campground. After that, it is off to Arches, which is only a few miles from I 70, which will take to 2020 miles to almost our front door.
As for campsites at or near Zion, i found a conveniently located KOA in Hurricane where i hoped to rent one of those cozy cabins to save a few hours at each end of the day, but they do not allow dogs. That's onky the second KOA i know of that doesn't allow dogs of the 30 or so i have been in. The first was in Minneapois in 2012 when two nights after Leben became paralyzed on Lake Superior and i had to turn back home, the KOA owner there would not ler me stay there in a cabin, even though the temperature was in the 20s and i had explained my predicament to her. No big deal. We drove on and find another.life on the road.
As for our days here , the pace was far more relaxing than my usual pace. All -if any - road trips in the future will be like this one.
On day 1, we drove the Badwater Road to beyond the basin that is the lowest point in North America. We drive about 10 miles on the very rough dirt West Highway, and then ended the day by a drive through Artistes Drive.
On day 2, we drove a round trip of 160 miles to Father Crowley view and then took a challengung detour up a mountainous and challenging dirt road to what is now officially called Donner's cove.
Today, day 3, we drove to Dantes View (wonderful) and then tested the Defender's mettle and metal on 20 Mule Canyon Road (it passed the test with flying colors).
Our late afternoons were spent doing the usual chores (Donner napping, looking out for dogs, grooming himself, or catching flies). Our evenings were mostly spent chatting with people, a luxury for me in this setting which i enjoyed. I especially enjoyed my long (at times emotional) chats with Ale and Krista, and with Roger, as i did others along the way when i tossed my schedle to the wind.
Ed and Donner, from the road
I am writing this posting as i overlook the extraordinarily beautful view at Dantes View in Death Valley. This most gorgeous place on earth was never on my list of places to experience, but it should have been, long ago. Somehow, my instincts to pay it a visit on this trip, and to sray for four days, was richly rewarded. Wow, what a beauty it is.
I have sent photos, privided some commentary, and explained some of the logistics, including our good fortune to end up in the site we secured, so i will jot dwell on them. I will only note thise things that come to my well-cleared mind as i sit here with the view as my music, the slight cool breeze as my virtual ink, and my naping dog beside me as additinal insoirztion. I would never have come here without him, nor will i ever take a road trip without my dogs.
We drove about 420 miles through the park these last three days on just about all the roads there are to drive. The return trips were just as exhilarting as thevoutward bound trips because when driving you can onky look one way at a time and because a view from the east is not the same view from the west. Not once durung these 420 miles did i feel indifference to what i was seeing, nor did i take my eyes off these views except when road conditions demanded my attention.
I purposely decided to divide the rides over three days to bask in the glory of these mountains. Unless someone wants to take the half dozen or so short hikes, it is possibke to drive through the entire park in one long day, but i would not advise it.
As for these short hikes, they do not allow pets on thise trails, so i took none of them. I refuse to leave my dogs on these trips as they are for the two of us together. Only once did i regret not being able to hike a trail, the 2-mile round trip to the beautiful oassis Darwin Falls, but i will find find some videos on line to experience throuh others' eyes what i missed.
But while the multitudinous school-marmish No Pets signs kept me off sime trails, the Defender in several places took me to a few places few would dare go, Donner's Cove for one. This vehicle over its 26 years and moon-distance miles have taken me places i never would have ventured with any other vehicke.
The No Pets signs, or the Defender's go-everywhere attitude notwithstanding, no matter how much joy people on these public access facilities, no one, and i mean no one, can experience the full pleasure of this park more than the backcountry hikers. Having taken six expeditions into the backcountry wildernesses of Alaska and Russia, i know that. I am not one for regretting actions or inactions of my own, but i as i sit here admiring this view, i regret not spending time as part of this landscape when i could have. But knowing it is there for others to experience is good enough for me. (Note: i imagine backcountry hiking is limited because of the dearth of watering holes, and one can only carry so much water in a place that requires one to drrink a gallon of water a day with temperatures going up to 124 degrees at times in places.
But the backcountry hiking instincts were still with me during these three days. As i scanned these forever unique mountains to the left of me and to the right of me as we drove by, after my first joys of the beauty were exhausted, my thoughts were always, which is the best pass to take? How difficult would that path be to traverse? How long would it take to hike from there to there? Where would a good place be to biviuace for the night? And what about water? My last expedition (on Kamchatka) was in 1997, but i cannot get these questions out of my mind. In a sense, they are still as useful today as i apply them to my current mode of experiencing nature, the road. But on a scale of 1 to ten, if backcountry hiking is a 10 and watching a video of the same terrain is a 1, the way i am experiencing it now is at best a 4.
As for some additional logistics, the weather really cooperated with us. Except for the first few hours here , the temperature has been tolerable. And the i occasional breezes and winds were welcome, not onky for heat relief, but to keep the fly population under control.
As for snags on this trip so far, it has been as snag free as one could hope for, especially if 2016 is the trip to beat. The latest came yesterday when i could not open the hood on the Defender, but a little ingenuity and an hour of my time succeeded.
Tomorrow we move on to Zion no, 270 miles away. The place is becoming so popular you cannot get a camp site within miles. Since my guess is that it will look like the annual RV convention us being held there, i will just drive though the park in one day, and then move on the the Grand Canyon north rim before the snows arrive there and closes the campground. After that, it is off to Arches, which is only a few miles from I 70, which will take to 2020 miles to almost our front door.
As for campsites at or near Zion, i found a conveniently located KOA in Hurricane where i hoped to rent one of those cozy cabins to save a few hours at each end of the day, but they do not allow dogs. That's onky the second KOA i know of that doesn't allow dogs of the 30 or so i have been in. The first was in Minneapois in 2012 when two nights after Leben became paralyzed on Lake Superior and i had to turn back home, the KOA owner there would not ler me stay there in a cabin, even though the temperature was in the 20s and i had explained my predicament to her. No big deal. We drove on and find another.life on the road.
As for our days here , the pace was far more relaxing than my usual pace. All -if any - road trips in the future will be like this one.
On day 1, we drove the Badwater Road to beyond the basin that is the lowest point in North America. We drive about 10 miles on the very rough dirt West Highway, and then ended the day by a drive through Artistes Drive.
On day 2, we drove a round trip of 160 miles to Father Crowley view and then took a challengung detour up a mountainous and challenging dirt road to what is now officially called Donner's cove.
Today, day 3, we drove to Dantes View (wonderful) and then tested the Defender's mettle and metal on 20 Mule Canyon Road (it passed the test with flying colors).
Our late afternoons were spent doing the usual chores (Donner napping, looking out for dogs, grooming himself, or catching flies). Our evenings were mostly spent chatting with people, a luxury for me in this setting which i enjoyed. I especially enjoyed my long (at times emotional) chats with Ale and Krista, and with Roger, as i did others along the way when i tossed my schedle to the wind.
Ed and Donner, from the road
Days 26-28, October 17-20, Death Valley National Park, California
I JUST FOUND THIS IN DRAFTS. DID I POST IT ALREADY.
I am writing this posting as i overlook the extraordinarily beautful view at Dantes View in Death Valley. This most gorgeous place on earth was never on my list of places to experience, but it should have been, long ago. Somehow, my instincts to pay it a visit on this trip, and to sray for four days, was richly rewarded. Wow, what a beauty it is.
I have sent photos, privided some commentary, and explained some of the logistics, including our good fortune to end up in the site we secured, so i will jot dwell on them. I will only note thise things that come to my well-cleared mind as i sit here with the view as my music, the slight cool breeze as my virtual ink, and my naping dog beside me as additinal insoirztion. I would never have come here without him, nor will i ever take a road trip without my dogs.
We drove about 420 miles through the park these last three days on just about all the roads there are to drive. The return trips were just as exhilarting as thevoutward bound trips because when driving you can onky look one way at a time and because a view from the east is not the same view from the west. Not once durung these 420 miles did i feel indifference to what i was seeing, nor did i take my eyes off these views except when road conditions demanded my attention.
I purposely decided to divide the rides over three days to bask in the glory of these mountains. Unless someone wants to take the half dozen or so short hikes, it is possibke to drive through the entire park in one long day, but i would not advise it.
As for these short hikes, they do not allow pets on thise trails, so i took none of them. I refuse to leave my dogs on these trips as they are for the two of us together. Only once did i regret not being able to hike a trail, the 2-mile round trip to the beautiful oassis Darwin Falls, but i will find find some videos on line to experience throuh others' eyes what i missed.
But while the multitudinous school-marmish No Pets signs kept me off sime trails, the Defender in several places took me to a few places few would dare go, Donner's Cove for one. This vehicle over its 26 years and moon-distance miles have taken me places i never would have ventured with any other vehicke.
The No Pets signs, or the Defender's go-everywhere attitude notwithstanding, no matter how much joy people on these public access facilities, no one, and i mean no one, can experience the full pleasure of this park more than the backcountry hikers. Having taken six expeditions into the backcountry wildernesses of Alaska and Russia, i know that. I am not one for regretting actions or inactions of my own, but i as i sit here admiring this view, i regret not spending time as part of this landscape when i could have. But knowing it is there for others to experience is good enough for me. (Note: i imagine backcountry hiking is limited because of the dearth of watering holes, and one can only carry so much water in a place that requires one to drrink a gallon of water a day with temperatures going up to 124 degrees at times in places.
But the backcountry hiking instincts were still with me during these three days. As i scanned these forever unique mountains to the left of me and to the right of me as we drove by, after my first joys of the beauty were exhausted, my thoughts were always, which is the best pass to take? How difficult would that path be to traverse? How long would it take to hike from there to there? Where would a good place be to biviuace for the night? And what about water? My last expedition (on Kamchatka) was in 1997, but i cannot get these questions out of my mind. In a sense, they are still as useful today as i apply them to my current mode of experiencing nature, the road. But on a scale of 1 to ten, if backcountry hiking is a 10 and watching a video of the same terrain is a 1, the way i am experiencing it now is at best a 4.
As for some additional logistics, the weather really cooperated with us. Except for the first few hours here , the temperature has been tolerable. And the i occasional breezes and winds were welcome, not onky for heat relief, but to keep the fly population under control.
As for snags on this trip so far, it has been as snag free as one could hope for, especially if 2016 is the trip to beat. The latest came yesterday when i could not open the hood on the Defender, but a little ingenuity and an hour of my time succeeded.
Tomorrow we move on to Zion no, 270 miles away. The place is becoming so popular you cannot get a camp site within miles. Since my guess is that it will look like the annual RV convention us being held there, i will just drive though the park in one day, and then move on the the Grand Canyon north rim before the snows arrive there and closes the campground. After that, it is off to Arches, which is only a few miles from I 70, which will take to 2020 miles to almost our front door.
As for campsites at or near Zion, i found a conveniently located KOA in Hurricane where i hoped to rent one of those cozy cabins to save a few hours at each end of the day, but they do not allow dogs. That's onky the second KOA i know of that doesn't allow dogs of the 30 or so i have been in. The first was in Minneapois in 2012 when two nights after Leben became paralyzed on Lake Superior and i had to turn back home, the KOA owner there would not ler me stay there in a cabin, even though the temperature was in the 20s and i had explained my predicament to her. No big deal. We drove on and find another.life on the road.
As for our days here , the pace was far more relaxing than my usual pace. All -if any - road trips in the future will be like this one.
On day 1, we drove the Badwater Road to beyond the basin that is the lowest point in North America. We drive about 10 miles on the very rough dirt West Highway, and then ended the day by a drive through Artistes Drive.
On day 2, we drove a round trip of 160 miles to Father Crowley view and then took a challengung detour up a mountainous and challenging dirt road to what is now officially called Donner's cove.
Today, day 3, we drove to Dantes View (wonderful) and then tested the Defender's mettle and metal on 20 Mule Canyon Road (it passed the test with flying colors).
Our late afternoons were spent doing the usual chores (Donner napping, looking out for dogs, grooming himself, or catching flies). Our evenings were mostly spent chatting with people, a luxury for me in this setting which i enjoyed. I especially enjoyed my long (at times emotional) chats with Ale and Krista, and with Roger, as i did others along the way when i tossed my schedle to the wind.
Ed and Donner, from the road
I am writing this posting as i overlook the extraordinarily beautful view at Dantes View in Death Valley. This most gorgeous place on earth was never on my list of places to experience, but it should have been, long ago. Somehow, my instincts to pay it a visit on this trip, and to sray for four days, was richly rewarded. Wow, what a beauty it is.
I have sent photos, privided some commentary, and explained some of the logistics, including our good fortune to end up in the site we secured, so i will jot dwell on them. I will only note thise things that come to my well-cleared mind as i sit here with the view as my music, the slight cool breeze as my virtual ink, and my naping dog beside me as additinal insoirztion. I would never have come here without him, nor will i ever take a road trip without my dogs.
We drove about 420 miles through the park these last three days on just about all the roads there are to drive. The return trips were just as exhilarting as thevoutward bound trips because when driving you can onky look one way at a time and because a view from the east is not the same view from the west. Not once durung these 420 miles did i feel indifference to what i was seeing, nor did i take my eyes off these views except when road conditions demanded my attention.
I purposely decided to divide the rides over three days to bask in the glory of these mountains. Unless someone wants to take the half dozen or so short hikes, it is possibke to drive through the entire park in one long day, but i would not advise it.
As for these short hikes, they do not allow pets on thise trails, so i took none of them. I refuse to leave my dogs on these trips as they are for the two of us together. Only once did i regret not being able to hike a trail, the 2-mile round trip to the beautiful oassis Darwin Falls, but i will find find some videos on line to experience throuh others' eyes what i missed.
But while the multitudinous school-marmish No Pets signs kept me off sime trails, the Defender in several places took me to a few places few would dare go, Donner's Cove for one. This vehicle over its 26 years and moon-distance miles have taken me places i never would have ventured with any other vehicke.
The No Pets signs, or the Defender's go-everywhere attitude notwithstanding, no matter how much joy people on these public access facilities, no one, and i mean no one, can experience the full pleasure of this park more than the backcountry hikers. Having taken six expeditions into the backcountry wildernesses of Alaska and Russia, i know that. I am not one for regretting actions or inactions of my own, but i as i sit here admiring this view, i regret not spending time as part of this landscape when i could have. But knowing it is there for others to experience is good enough for me. (Note: i imagine backcountry hiking is limited because of the dearth of watering holes, and one can only carry so much water in a place that requires one to drrink a gallon of water a day with temperatures going up to 124 degrees at times in places.
But the backcountry hiking instincts were still with me during these three days. As i scanned these forever unique mountains to the left of me and to the right of me as we drove by, after my first joys of the beauty were exhausted, my thoughts were always, which is the best pass to take? How difficult would that path be to traverse? How long would it take to hike from there to there? Where would a good place be to biviuace for the night? And what about water? My last expedition (on Kamchatka) was in 1997, but i cannot get these questions out of my mind. In a sense, they are still as useful today as i apply them to my current mode of experiencing nature, the road. But on a scale of 1 to ten, if backcountry hiking is a 10 and watching a video of the same terrain is a 1, the way i am experiencing it now is at best a 4.
As for some additional logistics, the weather really cooperated with us. Except for the first few hours here , the temperature has been tolerable. And the i occasional breezes and winds were welcome, not onky for heat relief, but to keep the fly population under control.
As for snags on this trip so far, it has been as snag free as one could hope for, especially if 2016 is the trip to beat. The latest came yesterday when i could not open the hood on the Defender, but a little ingenuity and an hour of my time succeeded.
Tomorrow we move on to Zion no, 270 miles away. The place is becoming so popular you cannot get a camp site within miles. Since my guess is that it will look like the annual RV convention us being held there, i will just drive though the park in one day, and then move on the the Grand Canyon north rim before the snows arrive there and closes the campground. After that, it is off to Arches, which is only a few miles from I 70, which will take to 2020 miles to almost our front door.
As for campsites at or near Zion, i found a conveniently located KOA in Hurricane where i hoped to rent one of those cozy cabins to save a few hours at each end of the day, but they do not allow dogs. That's onky the second KOA i know of that doesn't allow dogs of the 30 or so i have been in. The first was in Minneapois in 2012 when two nights after Leben became paralyzed on Lake Superior and i had to turn back home, the KOA owner there would not ler me stay there in a cabin, even though the temperature was in the 20s and i had explained my predicament to her. No big deal. We drove on and find another.life on the road.
As for our days here , the pace was far more relaxing than my usual pace. All -if any - road trips in the future will be like this one.
On day 1, we drove the Badwater Road to beyond the basin that is the lowest point in North America. We drive about 10 miles on the very rough dirt West Highway, and then ended the day by a drive through Artistes Drive.
On day 2, we drove a round trip of 160 miles to Father Crowley view and then took a challengung detour up a mountainous and challenging dirt road to what is now officially called Donner's cove.
Today, day 3, we drove to Dantes View (wonderful) and then tested the Defender's mettle and metal on 20 Mule Canyon Road (it passed the test with flying colors).
Our late afternoons were spent doing the usual chores (Donner napping, looking out for dogs, grooming himself, or catching flies). Our evenings were mostly spent chatting with people, a luxury for me in this setting which i enjoyed. I especially enjoyed my long (at times emotional) chats with Ale and Krista, and with Roger, as i did others along the way when i tossed my schedle to the wind.
Ed and Donner, from the road
Day 30, As It Is Happening, rest stop in Zion
Very crowded here . Camps full, parking list full.
Ed and Donner, from the road
Day 32, As It Is Happening, rest stop on way to Monument Valley
Wednesday, October 23, 2019
Day 31 Daily posting, Grand Canyon North Rim camp
What a pleasant night it turned out to be last night, alone in the forest with Donner, a bottle of rose, and Nessum Dorma wafting through the forest in loop mode.
As it turned out, someone else did indeed have the same idea as we did last night. At 8:30, in complete darkness, a vehicle dared to drive that rugged dirt road looking for a bivouac themselves. They stopped aways away from our piece of the forest, and then drove farther up the dirt road. They were never heard from again.
I did not sleep well last night, mainly because i was trying to work out contingency plans if the Defender did not start in the morning. Of 500 days on the road, only five times did it nit start, so the odds were in my favor. But when i finally worked up a contingency plan, i fell asleep at 1:30, only to be awakened 30 minutes later by the howling of nearby coyotes. After 30 minutes of their chorus, which was really quite pleasant, i fell asleep.
Up at 7, the Defender did start like a charm. We set off for the north rim camp and i was able to snag a cancellation fortwo nights, not just the one night i snagged yesterday, so we set up camp in a pleasant site and got on our way to see what we came to see.
The north rim viewing areas are fewer than at the south rim, but nonetheless spectacular. Unfortunately, they do not allow dogs on the choice viewing areas by the visitors center here, as does the south rim, so it was not as enjoyable for us. Also, the sunset here is restricted, which may explain why there were only eight other people watching. In contrast, at the south rim this time last year, there were hundreds. The fact that everything but the campground closed down here last week may explain it. Too cold for most people on this side of the canyon.
Because i accomplished all i set out to do here today , i think we will move on tomorrow to Bluff Utah and then Arches. I may decide to bivouac for a night in Monument Valley though. I will decide that when the road takes us where it wants us to go.
Ed and Donner, from the road
As it turned out, someone else did indeed have the same idea as we did last night. At 8:30, in complete darkness, a vehicle dared to drive that rugged dirt road looking for a bivouac themselves. They stopped aways away from our piece of the forest, and then drove farther up the dirt road. They were never heard from again.
I did not sleep well last night, mainly because i was trying to work out contingency plans if the Defender did not start in the morning. Of 500 days on the road, only five times did it nit start, so the odds were in my favor. But when i finally worked up a contingency plan, i fell asleep at 1:30, only to be awakened 30 minutes later by the howling of nearby coyotes. After 30 minutes of their chorus, which was really quite pleasant, i fell asleep.
Up at 7, the Defender did start like a charm. We set off for the north rim camp and i was able to snag a cancellation fortwo nights, not just the one night i snagged yesterday, so we set up camp in a pleasant site and got on our way to see what we came to see.
The north rim viewing areas are fewer than at the south rim, but nonetheless spectacular. Unfortunately, they do not allow dogs on the choice viewing areas by the visitors center here, as does the south rim, so it was not as enjoyable for us. Also, the sunset here is restricted, which may explain why there were only eight other people watching. In contrast, at the south rim this time last year, there were hundreds. The fact that everything but the campground closed down here last week may explain it. Too cold for most people on this side of the canyon.
Because i accomplished all i set out to do here today , i think we will move on tomorrow to Bluff Utah and then Arches. I may decide to bivouac for a night in Monument Valley though. I will decide that when the road takes us where it wants us to go.
Ed and Donner, from the road
Day 31 photo, Donner with two beautiful girlfriends.
Day 32, The Trip So Far, Grand Canyon , 6122 miles
Day 31 photo, Grand Canyon fire, my last on this trip.
Day 31 photo, the Grand Canyon and Donner with Amy and San of the Netherlands
Day 31, As It Is Happening, Grand Canyon site 31, North Rim camp
Now we are off to the north rim scenic drive.
Unless one is doing some hiking, one day would probably be sufficient here , but i will stay for two. Getting this campsite was too valuable to cut short, especially with the beautiful weather, albeit freezing at night. This puts me right on schedule, as if a scedule is relevant on the road.
Friday, we will head to Monument Valley where i might consider bivouacking for a day before moving on where the road takes us.
Ed and Donner, from the road
Tuesday, October 22, 2019
Day 30, October 22, Grand Canyon north rim, Kaibab National Forest bivouac
Last night was a busy night for us. For Donner, he met at least 10 new dogs. For me, i fed Donner, set up camp, had a light dinner, took a shower, did the laundry, sent off photos to my blog, wrote in my journal, posted an entry on my blog, took Donner to meet all those dogs, and God onky knows what else, all in five hours. I wish i had this efficiency at hime.
Dawn did not appear till 8 am this morning, but we got on the road by 930. My first task was to head into St George to the nearest Jiffy Lube, but i left after they told me there might be a long wait. Twenty miles up the road, i found another, so i pulled in. I learned something i did not know before, that i should be carrying the paper air filters and not the permanent ones i use since it takes hours for those permanent filters to dry, if they will service them at all, and that means time off the road, which means useable daylight. Instead of driving 9000 miles on one air filter, i will order one to be shipped to a friend in Denver so i get get a clean one put in for the long trip home.
I already posted commentary about how awesome Zion was, so i will add no more. Like most of these natural beauties, photos and words cannot do them justice. You have to live them to know them
I also already posted about our situation with a campsite for tonight. No big deal. There is something enriching to the soul about spending a night alone in a cold, remote forest. It strengthens one's constitution and mettle, but i was quite happy with mine already. Of course, hunters do it all the time, but they have big guns; i only have a lovable German shepherd dog who goes around kissing every dog he meets. But give me Donner any day.
Now that dark set in a 7, i expect the forest is all ours tonight. No one in his or her right mind would dare drive that trail we had to take to get here at night, maybe during the day, too,
Tomorrow, we will break camp and head back to the North Rim, 17 miles away. i should have our camp set up there by noon, and then we will tour the north rim for the next six hours. If i can get a site for the next night, i just might stay an extra day, but my instincts tell me it is time to move on and bring this incredible journey to an end, still at least 12 days away.
Time to get some shuteye, and hope the Defender starts tomorrow.
Ed and Donner, from the road, the dark, empty, very cold, isolated, remote Kaibab forest near the Grand Canyon.
Dawn did not appear till 8 am this morning, but we got on the road by 930. My first task was to head into St George to the nearest Jiffy Lube, but i left after they told me there might be a long wait. Twenty miles up the road, i found another, so i pulled in. I learned something i did not know before, that i should be carrying the paper air filters and not the permanent ones i use since it takes hours for those permanent filters to dry, if they will service them at all, and that means time off the road, which means useable daylight. Instead of driving 9000 miles on one air filter, i will order one to be shipped to a friend in Denver so i get get a clean one put in for the long trip home.
I already posted commentary about how awesome Zion was, so i will add no more. Like most of these natural beauties, photos and words cannot do them justice. You have to live them to know them
I also already posted about our situation with a campsite for tonight. No big deal. There is something enriching to the soul about spending a night alone in a cold, remote forest. It strengthens one's constitution and mettle, but i was quite happy with mine already. Of course, hunters do it all the time, but they have big guns; i only have a lovable German shepherd dog who goes around kissing every dog he meets. But give me Donner any day.
Now that dark set in a 7, i expect the forest is all ours tonight. No one in his or her right mind would dare drive that trail we had to take to get here at night, maybe during the day, too,
Tomorrow, we will break camp and head back to the North Rim, 17 miles away. i should have our camp set up there by noon, and then we will tour the north rim for the next six hours. If i can get a site for the next night, i just might stay an extra day, but my instincts tell me it is time to move on and bring this incredible journey to an end, still at least 12 days away.
Time to get some shuteye, and hope the Defender starts tomorrow.
Ed and Donner, from the road, the dark, empty, very cold, isolated, remote Kaibab forest near the Grand Canyon.
Day 30 photo, our isolated, renote bivouac for the night.
Dat 30 photo, Leaving Zion, heading to Grand Canyon.
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